Saturday, July 25, 2015

Magam July - Gingham Dress

I was planning to make this dress for Magam June but I couldn't finish it on time. So, instead of planning another garment for July, I just continue working on this dress :) And I was lucky that July theme is "Sew Bookish", exactly like what I have been doing :)

This dress is my third versions of Built By Wendy Dirndl Dress with modification. The dress has a hole at the front, sleeveless, semi gathered skirt, in seam pockets and knee length. Just perfect for summer :)

Dirndl dress (Lolita) from Built By Wendy book size S. I added a hole in the front bodice and added in seam pockets borrowed from BurdaStyle pattern.

2 yards of gingham cotton fabric
invisible zipper
medium weight fusible interfacing for interfaced the holes
light weight fusible tape for interfaced the zipper
1/2" bias tape
elastic loop and small button

Sewing Process:
I copied the patterns and slashed the front bodice in two to make a hole by measured 6 cm from the center front. I curved a little the upper part and then for the below part, I shaped like a sweetheart shape.
I added lining on the upper part and added facing on the below part.
Then I made a muslin.
After muslin done, I tried it and found out that so many areas I need to adjust. The bodice was too long, so I have to reduce 2 cm.
I reduced the outer shoulder 1.5 cm and smooth it down to the armhole.
Also made the neckline bigger by reduced the inner shoulder 4 cm and center front 1 cm. And then I drew a new neckline. For the neckline and armhole, I used 0.75 cm seam allowances and 1.5 cm seam allowances in all edges.
I added 6 cm for the skirt front and back to make it a little bit fuller.
I made sway back adjustment and reduced the skirt length 7 cm

After I had all the new adjustment, I cut the fabric and sew piece by piece as usual.
The only tricky part was sew the hole, I have to fuse medium weight fusible interfacing in upper bodice lining and below bodice facing. I was thinking that fusible interfacing will make the hole stay in place but apparently not.

For the skirt, I gathered and sew them onto the bodice right sides together. Then I sew the in seam pockets.
After that, I sew front and back bodice right sides together from the armhole along the way the in seam pocket down to the hemline. Here is the result,

After the pockets done, I worked on the invisible zipper. I fused the fusible tape on the wrong side of the center back and sew the zipper in the right side. Then sew the elastic loop in the right side on the top of the zipper.
Then I sew 1/2" bias tape along the neckline right sides together, fold it inside and topstitched. I did the same thing for the armholes. I sew the small button on the top of the zipper. Here is the closer look,

The last work was sew the hemline, iron it and done! :)

And here are some pictures of the final dress, I am loving it but I am a little bit disappointed with my work on the matching plaids - it wasn't good especially in the back side. But anyway... the dress is so comfortable to wear in hot summer day and it fits me just right, not too tight and not too loose :)

If any of you are interested to join our MAGAM group, you can pop over the link and join us. Make A Garment A Month
Happy sewing!

Sunday, July 19, 2015

BurdaStyle Boy's Shorts

Hi everyone..
Today post is the continuation of my weekly update "Diy Friday". Sorry for not updating my diy's episode for so many weeks, I have been busy with a lot of good things :)

My little boy needed some new shorts to wear on summer. All his shorts are getting small and tight at the waist. Well, I decided to search my stash and found leftover of knit cotton that is enough to make two shorts. Yay!

knit cotton
3 cm wide elastic

Based on BurdaStyle Boy's Sweatpants 10/2013-124 size 110. I cut the pattern right on the knee and slashed a little (2 cm) in both sides to avoid tightness. I skip the front fly and pockets.
Image source:
The sewing process was easy and fast. I have no difficulty because I already made the first shorts for my son Halloween costume, you can pop over here if you are interested - Mickey Mouse Costume.

I worked on the pattern first, by glued the two pieces of the front and back together. So both sides of the patterns are in the middle. And then I added 1.5 cm seam allowances and hem allowance.
After that, I cut the fabric 2x.
Then sew the shorts, sew the waist and inserted the elastic.
Sew the hem using twin needle and for decoration, I fused a little ball fabric sticker in the corner of the shorts bottom. Done!

You can see here the final shorts, front and back views

And the closer look of the little ball, isn't it cute? :)

I am planning to make one more shorts with the same fabric but different decoration. Up to the boy, he will chose the train or the airplane :) I have both fused fabric stickers in my stash.

A little note:
I am linking this shorts to Caroline at for Show Off Saturday

Happy sewing!

Thursday, July 16, 2015

Magam June Part 2 : BurdaStyle Flounce Skirt And T-Shirt

Hello everyone...
I am taking time for posting my flounce skirt because I am waiting for the t-shirt to wear with it. And after working for so many days, here is the result :) Finally I am wearing my skirt with the second version of Burda t-shirt 07/2008 -126

Well, before I show you the details of my work on the second t-shirt and flounce skirt, I would love to show you my first version of the t-shirt.
I had this pattern since 2008, I was planning to make it but always distracted with other things and in the end I completely forgot about my plan.

T-shirt details (first version)
- Left over knit cotton in navy blue, 1 1/4 yards
- Threads

BurdaStyle magazine 07/2008 model 126 size 34. I don't have a link to click for the pattern detail but you can see the drawing below

Image source from BurdaFashion

Sewing Process:
I grade down the pattern to size 34 because the minimum size from the magazine is 36. I also reduced the armholes 1/4 cm.
Then I cut and sew the fabric exactly like the original pattern.
The process was fine, the t-shirt came with two pieces of pattern - front and back on fold and the back band.
The only tricky part was sewing the back band. I need to pull and sew it at the same time to get it right.
The neckline and armholes finished with 1 cm bands sewn with twin needle using orange color thread. I used twin needle as well for the hemline.
After all, I think the t-shirt turned out cute and I like it :)
Here are the pictures of the finished t-shirt, front - back and side views,

And here is the closer look of the finished neckband, armhole bands and back bottom band 
T-shirt details ( second version)
- Left over knit cotton in grey and purple 1 1/4 yards
- Thread
Sewing Process:
I omitted the back band.
I copied the pattern, slash the side. So I have two separate pieces of pattern ( front and back).
Then I lengthen the middle back to a full back piece pattern ( because the original pattern has a square hole to sew the band)
After that, I reduced the hem 5 cm and modified the hemline with U shape in both front and back.
Same as the first version, the neckline and armholes finished with 1 cm bands from the same fabric.
And the hemline finished with 1.5 cm hem allowance sewn with twin needle.
I really love the result more than the first version, the t-shirt looks so cool and modern with U shape hem line. And here are the pictures of the front and back views

And the picture of the closer look of the neckband, armhole bands and hemline 

Flounce Skirt details
2 yards of navy blue medium crepe
Invisible zipper
Fusible interfacing for the waistband

BurdaStyle Flounce Mini Skirt 09/2014 size 34. I added a waistband 4 cm wide for the skirt finished with hook n eye fasteners.
Image source from BurdaStyle

Sewing Process:
I drew the flounce according to the instructions.
Cut and sew the fabric in order and sew the invisible zipper.
After that I fused fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband and sew it onto the skirt body right sides together. Folded the waistband wrong side together and pin the seam allowance 1.5 cm inside the waistband. And sew along until the end.
And then sew the hook n eye fasteners.
I top stitched the upper flounce, in this case I just placed the seam allowance to the upper direction and top stitched them from the right side of the skirt.
Then, the last work was sew the hemline 1 cm hem allowance. Press with iron. Done!

Here are the two pictures of the skirt details. It is very difficult to see the details because of dark colour but I think you can guess :)

And the last two pictures of me wearing the garments, front and side views,
This skirt is my second garment for June's Magam Challenge with the theme "Stashbuster"

I had one finished June's garment (orange short) but I will be posting the details when the top is ready. And also, my gingham dress is on the way to finish. It supposed to be for June garment challenge but I will extend it for July garment. So, the next post will be a mix between June and July garments. I hope Sarah Liz will accept it :)
Happy sewing!

Friday, June 26, 2015

Magam June Part 1 : Pleated Hem Batik Dress

Hi everyone...
I mentioned in my facebook post that I will be making four garments for June Magam with theme " Stashbuster" and here is my first garment,

I was planning to make the dress with a hole at neckline and pleated hem but the hole didn't turn out well. So I have to cover the hole with a bib and sew eight buttons for accessory. I will explain more about the unsuccessful hole in the below post.

I bought this batik in Kuta - Bali almost two years ago. The fabric already cut in a big rectangle with 1.8 yards long finished with rolled hemmed in both sides. I think the fabric is ready for beach cover or even tablecloth :)
The reason why I bought it because the length is enough to make a simple dress and the print is so beautiful. I especially love both end of the fabrics,
Beside the fabric, I also need invisible zipper, fusible tape, 9 small buttons, elastic for button loop, fusible interfacing, 1/2'' self-made bias tape from same fabric and thread

BurdaStyle Jamie Shift Dress size 34 modified with pleated hem.
I cut the dress bodice 62 cm long and pleated hem 109 cm wide x 19 cm long, I added 1.5 cm seam allowances in all edges.
The neckline finished with bias tape sewn in the wrong side and added a bib in center front with eight buttons.
The back dress finished with invisible zipper and small button and loop closer.

The picture below shows my plan that didn't turn out well. I supposed to make a hole at the front neckline as shown in my flat sketch but I cut the hole a little bit big with the shape of triangle. The final result is not nice, the hole didn't laid flat and looks strange to me :(
Then I made a quick decision, I cover the hole with the same fabric. Problem solved!

You can see that the hole is a little bit big. Too bad! I think I should reduced 1 cm in all edges and make key hole, not triangle.

To cover the hole, I cut the fabric and fusible interfacing 40 cm long and 10 cm wide with 1 cm seam allowances in all edges. Fused the fusible in the wrong side of the fabric and folded the fabric wrong sides together.
Placed the fabric ( I called bib) in the center front with folded line at the neckline. Pin and basted the bib as shown in the picture below.
 Then sew along the edges 1/2 cm. Removed the basting. Press with iron
 And here is the wrong side of the bib. Looks awful but what can I do :)
After that, I sew eight buttons on the bib. As shown in the picture. The buttons are small printed with green gingham, so cute.
 I also sew the button and loop closer on the top of the zipper. I hope you can see it

For the pleated hem. I cut two pieces of the fabric 109 cm long and 19 cm wide, added 1.5 cm seam allowances.
I sew the two pieces right sides together. Sew the raw edges using an overlocker sewing machine.
Pleated along the hem 1 cm in each pleat and pin. It consumed time to did that but the result is lovely :)
Then sew the pleats. Sew the raw edge using an overlocker sewing machine. Sew the hem 1 cm hem allowance. Press the pleats down to hem with iron.
 Here are the finished pleats and hem. Right and wrong sides

And the last two pictures of the dress in the hanger. Front and back views

This dress is my fifth version of Jamie Shift Dress, here are my previous dresses based on the same pattern.
First version, Color Block Dress
Second version, Polka Dots Dress
Third version, Floral Shift Dress
Forth version, Vintage Modern Batik Dress

Happy sewing!


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